Dressing the 1:144 Scale Queen Anne is going to take some time.

I recently spent several hours on the fireplace. The largest portion of my time went into designing the tile — it had to print as an actual design, not a brown blob. I started with creating a fabulously intricate Moroccan-flavored tile. Printed at such a tiny scale, the details all melted together to create a solid brown tile. The final graphic is a much simplified and brightened design.

Doesn’t look right, does it? But it prints well.

For the fireplace construction, I was greatly inspired by Anna Carin’s fireplace tutorial. Because I wanted a natural wood finish, I used wood where Anna Carin used cardstock, but the build method is pretty much identical.

And just for fun…

one

1/144 Scale Perfume BottlesI thought I was quite clever when I came up with this idea for little perfume bottles, but then I found out others had thought of it before me.

It’s always hard to discover that you’re not original. :D Nonetheless, I decided to go ahead with the tutorial because these little gems are a great “beginner” accessory for 1/144 scale.

These bottles are SIMPLE to make (if you have a good pair of tweezers) and really add lovely detail to your tiny little dressing table.



The biggest problem you will have are beads skittering away — but a saucer and some scrap polymer clay will take care of the majority the runaways. There will be beads who choose to take flight. Some beads were just born to be free.

I was not able to find the two sizes of no-hole beads locally, but I ordered from MiniKitz. Deb (at MiniKitz) is super-speedy with getting orders out the door and a pleasure to deal with.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Even though you’ll only purchase two sizes of beads (1/2mm and 1mm), you will quickly discover that you have a wide variety of sizes. These micro-beads are not even close to consistent in sizing. But that’s a Good Thing — it gives you more options on fancy bottles and various size bottles.

Perfume Bottle Supplies

Supplies

- 1/2mm and 1mm “no-hole” beads — I got mine from MiniKitz.
- CA Glue. (I use “Zap-A-Gap”.)
-Toothpicks (for applying glue)
- Tweezers
- Scrap Polymer Clay (for holding beads in place)
- Saucer (for holding beads)
- Tile or similar (for holding glue)



Bead Bed

Step 1

Making a “Bed” for your beads.
This step is to provide a workspace where beads don’t roll around all over the place. ;) Flatten out a piece of scrap clay that gives you about a 2″ workspace.

Use the BLUNT end of your tweezers or the handle of a paint brush to make a “moat” around the edges (this traps beads that escape your tweezers).


Beads

Step 2

Placing the bottle bases.
Select from the larger beads and place several in your clay base.

NOTE: As you can see from the pictures, I place an assortment of beads on a plate (make sure it as a curved edge or “lip”). I find this much easier than trying to nab beads out of their individual containers. When finished, I just dump the assortment into their own plastic bag.



Placing BeadsUse your tweezers to gently press each bead into the clay. You want to make a slight indent with the bead, not shove it deeply into the clay.



Beads on Bead BedVoice of experience: if you push the beads too far into the clay, you end up with clay on your bottle and these tiny little treasures are tough to clean-up.


CA Glue

Step 3

Glue Application.
Place a drop of CA glue (e.g., Zap-A-Gap) on a non-porous surface (such as tile or an old plate that you sacrifice to “craft purposes only”).



GlueThis bit of glue will usually stay fresh enough to use for your entire session of bottle making.


Dab Glue
Use a toothpick or bamboo skewer to pick up a dab of glue and place the dab on one of the “bottle” beads already placed in your clay.


Placing the Bottle Top

Step 4

Placing the bottle tops.
Select from the smaller beads and place one on each bottle you’ve dabbed with glue. I find it best to make the tops a contrasting color to the base. At this scale, if you use the same color for top and base, the top is very difficult to see.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you accidentally touch your tweezers in the glue (it will happen), STOP. Drop the bead and clean your tweezers. Better to mess up one bead bottle than your tweezers.



Timer

Step 5

Allow bottles to dry thoroughly.
I put this in as an extra step because I am so likely not to wait long enough. CA glue does dry quickly, but not as quickly as I would always like. ;)

But if you pick the bottles up to quickly, you will lose some of the tops.



Removing Beads

Step 6

Removing Beads from Clay.
If you bend the clay a bit, it pulls away from the beads and makes it easier to remove the bottles with tweezers. Be sure to perform this step over a small curved plate in case any fall from the clay (in the hopes that the curved lip of the plate will imprison any wayward beads).



1/144 Scale Perfume Bottles

Step 7

Using your bottles.
These bottles make the perfect addition to a vanity table or bathroom counter. I’ve used them here with a mini-metal vanity table.

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Flowers from False Eyelash Clumps

False Eyelash FlowersI was stuck in the pharmacy waiting for a prescription when I decided to amuse myself by wandering through the store to see if I could find anything usable at 1/144 scale.

When I hit the “false eyelashes” in the Cosmetics Department, I knew they could be used for something, but I didn’t know what. Then I spotted the “eyelash clumps” — little tiny clumps (10-15 lashes per clump) and I knew I had the perfect stems for 1:144 flowers. They cost $2.99, so I bought a pack (which contains 56 clumps — that’s a LOT of flowers).

What I didn’t know at the time was, they also make great leaves (by clumping several lashes together) and great “saw grass” (putting several clumps together).

Here’s how I made two little vases of flowers:

Eyelash Flower Supplies

Supplies

1. False Eyelash “Clumps”
2. Seed Beads or Bugle Beads
3. Very Fine Floral Foam. I got mine (“Nu Foam”) at MiniKitz
4. Acrylic Craft Paints (assorted colors)
5. CA Glue. I used “Zap-A-Gap”.
6. Bamboo Skewers or toothpick (for applying glue)
7. Small sewing needle
8. Tweezers
9. Small Scissors


Eyelash Plant Clumps

Step 1

Removing lash clumps from packaging.
Use tweezers to lift an eyelash clump from the packaging. Note that the end of the clump has a light adhesive (similar to “rubber cement”), so the clumps are “stuck” in the box. A light tug removes them, but leaves the adhesive intact — nice because it keeps the clumps from flying away… most of the time. ;)


Grasping Eyelashes

Step 2

Spreading the lashes for flower stems.
Place the clump on your work surface. Spread the lashes by applying pressure at the base of the clump (I used tweezers).

Notice the wide “blob” at the base of the clump — I’m going to mention it later.


Painting Eyelashes

Step 3

Color the stems.
Apply dark green paint. Don’t worry if the lashes get somewhat clumped together (it’s going to happen), but keep them as spread as possible.



Separate stems

Step 4

Re-separate stems.
Allow paint to dry for 2-3 minutes. Use a razor blade or craft knife to separate the lashes. I like this step because it lifts up some of the paint and gives the stems a “hairier” and more organic look.



Floral Foam

Step 5

Adding the “flowers”.
Once again, apply pressure to base of clump to keep lashes separated. Using a toothpick or bamboo skewer, coat lashes with CA glue.

Use tweezers to pick up and sprinkle small bits of floral foam over the lashes coated with glue. Arrange foam to your liking… but don’t get to attached to the arrangement — you’ll likely lose some bits of foam when placing these stems in their vase. Additionally, don’t get too much foam on the bottom half of the clump — this portion is going to be pulled through the “bead vase” and removed.

If you don’t have floral foam, you can make some interesting budding plants by dipping the lashes in acrylic paint. You can see an example of “paint buds” in Step 6. If you decide to use paint, you can skip applying glue.



Trimming Clumps

Step 6

Trimming Clumps.
Remember the “blob” I mentioned in Step 2? Well, that “blob” doesn’t fit into the bead we’re going to use as a vase. So trim the blob FROM THE SIDES. Don’t simply remove the blob, it holds the lashed together. Small scissors work best for this step.



Paint Leaves

Step 7

Making the leaves.
Create leaves repeating Steps 1-3 on a new clump. I recommend using a pale green paint. Instead of separating the individual lashes in this painted clump, divide the clump into 2-3 small groups. Allow the paint to dry before attempting to work with the leaves further (if you’re using acrylic paints, the dry time is very short).



Insert Flowers

Step 8

Placing flowers in vase.
Apply CA glue to base of flower clump. Thread clump through sead bead or bugle bead. Use whatever means available, lol. I use tweezers to hold the bead and a very thin sewing needle to push the clump into the bead.

Dependent on the size of your bead hole, you may have to separate one clump into 2-3 smaller ones and thread the individual clumps through.

Use tweezers to pull clump through bottom of bead until flowers are desired height above top of bead. Apply dot of CA glue at base of bead. Allow to dry. Trim excess stem below bottom of vase.



Add Leaves

Step 9

Adding the leaves to vase.
Sometimes the hole in the bead will be large enough to force the entire leaf clump into the bead. Other times it will be necessary to trim the leaves prior to placing them in the vase and then add the leaves one at a time by dipping each leaf base in CA glue and then popping it into the bouquet wherever you like.



False Eyelash Flowers

Step 10

Finishing Touches.
If needed, you can now use a razor or sewing needle to “arrange” the flowers. Also, if you lost many of the “blossoms” in the building process or simply need more blooms, you can dab CA glue on stems and place floral foam with tweezers.

From top of the flowers to the bottom of the vase, the “large” vase in the picture stands about 4-feet tall (in 1/144 scale) and the small vase stands about 2-1/2 feet tall.

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